Yucatan Finale
We found a “new to us” service this time in Mexico. Wayak.com is a transportation company that uses private cars and drivers that drive you cross country. Three times we chose this mode of transportation, as the flight schedules were crazy with long layovers. They drove us from Merida to Valladolid, and again from Valladolid to Playa del Carmen, our last stop in the Yucatan.
We spent four nights in Valladolid, a small city with a lot going on. The Casa Hamaca Guesthouse was our base, a small hotel with a genial US owner who treated us to a movie night on our first day and was helpful in figuring out itineraries. In the city, I fell in love with the Casa de los Venados, the house of the deer. This huge and charming private home opens to the public twice a day so visitors can view the amazing collection of folk art the American owners have accumulated while living in Mexico for over 50 years. With many prize winning offerings as well as commissioned works, it was a challenge to take it all in. The $5 donation goes to fund education for local youth. Do not miss it! I would take a day trip from Cancun just to see this home and collection.
We also visited the former Convent of San Bernadino, a beautiful building and grounds which reflect the Spanish conquest of Mexico and the Christianization of the native people. In the evenings, the city puts on a light show, but we failed to make it there. Churches, artisan markets, and the teeny, tiny Museum of Ethic Clothing round out the sights we visited in the town.
Valladolid is a jumping off point to visit many Mayan ruins. Since we had visited Chichen Itza on a previous trip, we ventured to Ek’ Balam in a Colectivo taxi, a car that collects people going to the same place, not quite as thrifty as a bus, but more direct, and sometimes more comfortable. One of the odd things about visiting this site in the jungle is the price. Whereas admission to the other archaeological sites we visited was a a few dollars each, this site was $25 US pp and there were vendors everywhere. Notwithstanding the price and the nuisance factor, the structures are different and interesting. Amazingly, some stucco sculptures and many painted hieroglyphic inscriptions survive, now protected by thatch awnings. Paul climbed the Acropolis to view and photograph them, but I remained behind on terra firma.
From Valladolid, we returned to Playa del Carmen, where we had visited a few times over ten years ago. Needless to say, things have changed. The cute little “Fifth Avenue” with local merchants has been replaced by a huge outdoor mall with brands from near and far. The beach was so crowded the first day that we couldn’t believe it. Food-wise, we enjoyed visiting Don Sirloin, which is now a big chain, but had one tiny location that had just opened the last time we were there. A must not miss, but reservation needed, is Oh La La by George. A tiny, nine table restaurant that you can barely find during the day, opens its patio and interior in the evening to a rich, fresh menu and great wine list. Our favorite part of visiting Playa was leaving it to go to Isla Mujeres. We took a fun catamaran trip that offered a short snorkel, a shorter swim and an hour and a half in Isla Mujeres. Beautiful water and beaches are beckoning us to return this spring.
We loved our nearly four weeks in the Yucatan, and then moved on to the interior of Mexico. I hope you will join our vagabond life in Puebla, our next destination.
The fountain on the plaza in Valladolid.